Saturday, January 28, 2006: Paris, France:Plans for the day included the Louvre, but first I had decided I wanted to show Aaron the Centre Pompidou. It’s only two metro stops up from the Louvre, it’s a great neighborhood for lunch and a little shopping, and the Stravinsky Fountain is a hoot. But Aaron likes modern art, and was seized with a desire to actually go into the museum. The guide book said it took about an hour, so why not? The Louvre is open late on Friday nights, so even after our tour of local pay phones, this gave us plenty of time.
The Centre Pompidou, if you’ve never seen it, is built in a style called “exoskeletal,” which means all its infrastructure—pipes, electrical wires, etc.—is on the outside. So it's kind of like a very large lobster full of modern art. It’s also got a network of hollow plastic tubal walkways that would excite even the most cosmopolitan of hamsters, and from which one can see a panoramic view of Paris. (It’s not hard to get above the rooftops of Paris for a panoramic view, since most buildings aren’t more than four or five stories.)
A note regarding my last visit to the Pompidou: I hadn’t hitherto been interested in modern art, but I had a guide book that made me think perhaps I ought to give it a try. I was with my ex-boyfriend Morgan, and we both approached the place grimly determined to keep an open mind, and see what we could learn. At one point we entered a dark room, where there was a repetitive whirring, clicking noise. Ah, we thought, installation art. It invokes childhood fear of the dark, primitive night terrors. Very effective. Truly, we are art connoisseurs. Then the film finished rewinding and the slide show started.
I’m afraid I dragged Aaron out of there in a hurry. There’s only so much weird art I can take in one day. Me, I like my modern art traditional. I understand Chagall, Picasso, and Dali (as much as anyone can be said to understand Dali). I do not, generally, understand performance art, such as the looping tape of an admittedly attractive woman named Lucy making horse noises. I also do not understand those large single-colored canvases named things like “Blue.” I mean, it’s a very striking shade of blue, yes, but surely you could get it at Home Depot.
I am going to Art Hell.
We actually ended up missing the fountain, since it was on the opposite side of the museum from where we exited, and we were in a hurry by that time to get to the Louvre—“plenty of time” had not included
quite so much time in Weird Art Land, and we had to get back to the room in time to change for the evening show at the Lido (they have a dress code, and we hadn't wanted to lug Aaron's suit jacket and dress shoes around with us all day). We were also trying to spend as little time as possible standing around outside in the not-quite-yet below freezing temperatures, so we descended into the bowels of the metro to head to our next stop.